Sunday, October 16, 2011

동대문, 한우, 그리고 긴 밤

I have become a little bit spoiled I suppose. I had Loren in Seoul to hang out with and show me around, introducing me to new people and experiences. Before that, in Tokyo there were the Anzai’s and Fran and Dennis. Now thinking ahead to Misawa, I don’t know what I am going to do. Maybe just go back to old fashioned way of meeting people. I have been fortunate though. It’s pretty cool to have friends all over the world, especially the ones I have. This was my last real weekend in Korea and although a little sad, and despite the torrential rains, I managed to have a great time. After a very wet Friday, I thought it was going to clear up, but after meeting Ann
and Francie for coffee in Myeongdong, the skies started to darken and it was like 6 p.m. at noon. The skies let us wander around for awhile shopping and having fun but when we finally stopped in a tea shop, the bottom fell out and it rained hard. We quick-walked across the street to a café and drank more coffee, stalling there as long as we could. We decided (for some reason) to take a taxi to Dongdaemun and walked in ankle deep water to the street corner. Apparently we were the last three people waiting for the last available taxi in Seoul, because we waited and waited dangling our hands out everytime we saw a taxi coming. Finally, the last available taxi in Seoul showed up, and took us out of what was now a river, formerly a major street, and dropped us off into another river a few miles down the road. We were just glad to have a warm and dry ride. So, umbrellas up and wet from the waist down, we careened and collided with other umbrella-armed citizens for a short eternity until after having not stopped and not spoken a word, Ann finally stopped and said what we were all thinking: “This is ridiculous!” We decided that food was in order so we slushed on in silence and soaking wet. The restaurant we found was a quaint looking place in an alley and on arrival the owner met us at the door stating, “Only beef!” like three times. I was trying to contain my hunger because I was going to dinner with Loren in a couple of hours, but the guy simply didn’t want to allow me to not eat a full meal. I kept saying two and pointing to Ann and Francie and counting them for him. As if he thought I was an idiot and didn’t know how to count myself, he repeated one two, three, emphasizing that I was number three. He even translated it into Korean for me, hana, tul, set, as if that would clear it up. Finally, I gave in, weary of yet another circular conversation. At that point I would have eaten leaves and grass. This is not a sea story but, this is no shit: the servers brought out grass soup, and a pile of leaves. Then assorted other things and a big pile of beef. We looked at each other helplessly because we really had no idea what to do with this stuff. Then the owner person brought a bucket of fiery coals and put them in the middle of the table with a grill on top. We still kind of looked at each other for a minute and the servers, I guess, felt sorry for us and proceeded to show us how to place the beef, mushrooms and garlic on the grill, mix up other stuff, put it on a leaf and then add the cooked meat, wrap it up in a neat little bundle and eat it. It was sooooo good. Feeling empowered by this great knowledge we ate a hot meal and warmed ourselves by the fire. After a hearty meal we decided that slopping along in a foot of water in single file, not speaking a word to eat other and shivering from the cold was not a great way to spend the remaining hours of the day and said our goodbyes. I went to Loren’s house, purged and went out for another steak dinner. Would you believe it was exactly the same meal as I had just eaten? The difference was that the beef was Hanu or Hanwoo beef, raised in Korea and considered a Korean cultural icon, is so tasty, tender and succulent. We ate again and I enjoyed it immensely, but I did confess to Loren about my earlier meal. Apparently in Korean restaurants, you can eat, drink, smoke, burp and fart, but it is not proper to say, “wow this tastes just like Kobe beef (Japanese beef).” Everybody stopped talking and dropped their metal chopsticks with a loud collective crash. Quickly realizing I had created yet another cultural snafu (in a long line of many), I added, “but sooooo much better!” Everyone resumed their meal but kept an eye on me. After dinner and another good purge, we hit the road, met up with Hunter, Sang Yeop, and a gathering entourage for a night on the town with So-Maek, Karaoke, and, yes, another meal at around 2 a.m. Fortunately the ongoing rain drove away many of the sugar plums for fear of melting, so we had the streets to ourselves, finally wrapping it all up at 5 a.m. What a great finale for my Seoul experience! After a few more days of work I pass the torch to a new MFLC and head back to the city for a final night before catching a flight outta here on Monday. Again, I like Korea very much and hope to come back, maybe at Christmas. We shall see. My pictures are Ann and Francie, Sandy and her Happy KORever coffee cup, an Ice Cream Corn stand, and Karma performers in Insadong.

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