Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Germany again




If I blogged more frequently, I probably would have such long posts. I don't know...
Back in Germany after 3 years, I find that nothing has changed.  It is still a beautiful place with lots of laid back towns and castles around every corner.  Here in Bavaria it is a little different from the Rhineland.  Not as mountainous where I live “in der Oberpfalz” but I did get to see the Alps, which of course is a lot more hilly. After Korea and Japan where I had good access to things like the shopping, wi-fi, and coffee shops, it has been a little frustrating to be in a one-horse town where groceries are small, wi-fi is either nowhere or at a considerable charge, and the coffee shops close before I get off work. The town is quaint however and it’s castle dates back about 1000 years. Nevertheless I am enjoying it here.  I spent the first weekend with my friends Sherry and Shelley in Bamberg which was relatively unscathed by WWII and has amazing old castles an awesome Cathedral and a great Altstadt (Old City).  It’s many breweries make it hard to sample all the local beers but I did have a great time at a Brauhaus with savory German food and Rauchbier, a smoky dark beer unique to the area and consumed within a few days of brewing, otherwise it goes bad.  At least that’s what they say.  I think they just can’t brew it as fast as they want to drink it and waiting for a beer is unacceptable. The next week we went to Neuschwanstein (Noy-shvan-stine) and Hohenschwangau at the north side of the Alps.  These were castles of Kings Maximillian and Ludwig II.  Neuschwanstein is the one that the Disney Castle was modeled after.  After being rushed through the castle in a fast guided tour and having a beer by the lake we found an elegant restaurant out in the country when we decided to go off road and find some food. The next morning in Stuttgart we wandered around and finally got on a train back to home.  This past weekend Shelley and I went to Munich and got a great room in the Aldstadt, climbed the tower at St. Peter’s Church and watched the Rathaus Glockenspiel do it’s dance at high noon in the drizzling rain. We spent the rest of the afternoon at Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial.  The experience was kind of different than I expected.  There are a few big memorials built on the site to commemorate certain groups of people who were murdered and martyred there.  Much of it seemed almost like a big empty park, but what do you do with a place like this?  It couldn’t be left as it was 67 years ago, it couldn’t be beautified.  Parts were very chilling. First was the entrance where the railroad stopped and people were marched through the gate that reads “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work Brings Freedom) into the courtyard. The second was the gas chamber, clearly marked “Brausebad” (Shower) next to the crematorium, both fully intact.  The small rooms at either end of the crematorium were morgues where bodies were stacked by the hundreds. Some were even stacked outside against the walls because the morgues were full.  The barracks had been reconstructed and only two are there, although 32 existed at war’s end each having been crammed with up to 2000 people although they were built to house 200. The memorial is not a pleasant place to visit, but seems to have been watered down or minimized somewhat.  They advertise it as the Third Reich Tour, failing to address the holocaust that happened here. 31,000 people died at Dachau, most from disease and starvation and many from execution by shooting, hanging or gassing but it is not called an extermination camp.  Maybe semantics sometimes seem tedious, but sometimes calling it what it is seems more appropriate. After that we definitely need something to lighten us up a little and found a Starbucks WITH free wi-fi and had dinner and weissbier at the Ratskeller under the Rathaus (Old City Hall). I love speaking German, if what I do can actually be called speaking German. And to top it all off it snowed about an inch and continued to flurry til we had to get back on the train to ride home again.  Whew!  It has been a busy 3 weeks.  Work is going well and traveling is going well, I have lost a few pounds, and I am running every day.  Alles ist gut.  Next weekend we plan to spend in Prague.  I am fairly sure that will be a great time. The pictures in order from R-L and Top to Bottom are: Bamberg Cathedral, Streets of Bamberg, Me and the Alps, Neuschwanstein, Dachau entrance, the gate at Dachau, The Rathaus and Glockenspiel at Munich, Alstadt entrance in Munich, and a view of the altstadt in Munich, Me & Weissbier.


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